Killing me Softly With His Song

I was up with the dawn today. Not really but I was up at 6:45. I needed to be at the dock at 8AM for the Whale/Dolphin watch. I boarded the ship to a gaggle of quacking like noise as there were only French people aboard. I asked the ‘captain’ if anyone spoke English. He said “Madame, we all speak English”. Oooookay. I’m familiar with this scenario. The same thing happened in Papeete on that whale watch. They are very good during the briefing but after that, not so much. And that was the same thing that happened here. I heard English twice until we docked. Mostly, I just smiled and tried to figure out where to look.

But the most excellent thing happened this time—we found a whale. The catamaran had a microphone they lowered into the water when they spotted a whale. I heard LIVE whale song. It was so amazing. It was a young male just singing his heart out. One thing I did learn during the briefing, to give you an idea of their size and weight, the tongue of the whale weighs as much as the catamaran does.

This isn't the best one but I can only upload 100 MB. The chirpy-clicky noises are dolphins. We were told that the dolphins like to hear whale song and actually sometimes if the dolphins are hanging out in one area, there could be a whale near by!

Anyway, the guide said to get ready and I wanted so much to go out there and swim but he said only the very best swimmers could go with him. So, I stayed near the boat, heart pounding. The whale was not adverse to us being near him at all. He ‘played’ and put on a show for us. It was so unbelievable. Once again, I was stunned and I think even more gobsmacked than I was in Taha’a. And that is saying a lot. Once back on the boat, I even got a picture of whale tail! I was so excited.

Whale Tail!!!

As a matter of fact, I was so amazed, ready to pee myself—whatever, that I turned off my camera at one point and thought I was recording the whale. I know…. Smacked myself already. But thankfully, there was a professional cameraman on board and he filmed the whole thing and I could purchase a copy for a mere 7000. What could I do? I handed over the money. I get the USB stick tomorrow!

We also saw several pods of spinner dolphins. That was pretty cool too. They didn’t jump out of the water, but surfaced as a group several times as they came up to breathe.

The scenery along the way was so amazing. The water—I know I’ve said it before but it is the most awesome colors I’ve ever seen. My photos look good, but somehow they don’t quite capture it. There were millions of coral heads I would have loved to stopped at, but not this time.

We sailed past the town of Hapati, which is a known surfing area. The waves were a good size and there were about 15 surfers out there. I have never been that close to surfers either!

The 3^rd stop was in about 5 ½ feet of water with a fairly strong current. It was a place to snorkel with rays and sharks. (I actually thought…..again? LOL) No, it was pretty cool. The sharks at this stop got much, much closer. I mean, like 2-3 feet away from you. The rays were insane. They just slithered all over you and let you touch them. It was pretty amazing actually.

And no, the camera was not on zoom here. 2 weeks ago, I would have been climbing up the guide's back ala Miss Lindsey in Grand Cayman!

After we got back to the hotel, I came back to my room for a little lunch. I’d only had a yogurt for breakfast and was pretty hungry. I made myself a little feast of crackers, cheese, salami and 2 graham cracker-like cookies. Then it was off to the pool to read for a bit and cool off in the infinity pool. I got into the other one today. Both are 4 ½ feet deep with wide sitting/laying area at the edge away from the ocean.

I came back from dinner tonight and they were having the Polynesian dinner show on the beach in front of the pools. I can see and hear it from my room. It really didn’t interest me and it was very, very expensive to attend. They are loving banging on those drums. They are dressed in traditional Polynesian outfits. For the men this means that whole thong thing with these woven leaf things around their calves and a crown of some sort made of fresh greens and flowers.

Most of the men here have those beautiful tribal tattoos that are done in a brown color. I don’t know if I said, but they are very important. The man is said to go to the artist and tell his life and family’s story. Then the artist creates the tattoo based on this information with the appropriate symbolic images in the tattoo. They are also meant as some sort of protection for the person. If the men get them done in the traditional way, it is very time consuming and more painful than the needles.  Here is a link to an interesting article if you are interested:

http://www.apolynesiantattoo.com/polynesian-tattoo-history

I am going to get some sort of tattoo on my thigh to symbolize this trip. Not sure what—turtle, ray, fish. Who knows? I’ll keep you posted.

Back to dinner---most of the restaurants around here will send a car to pick you up and drop you back off.  Very convenient as most people don’t rent cars and nothing is really within walking distance. I went to Le Sunset at the Hibiscus Hotel tonight. I had the shrimp with curry and coconut sauce. They were very good. What killed me was the drink menu. I ordered a Hinano and it was $8 (not even the big bottle, just a regular 12 oz bottle). I know we are in the middle of the Pacific Ocean but the freakin’ beer is manufactured here and you can buy a bottle for about a $1 in a gas station. Yeah well, it went well with the spicy shrimp! And I brought a piece of the baguette back with me in my purse for a salami and cheese sandwich tomorrow for lunch!

And finally, Jeff Beck this is for you! You know how I feel about birds so I must really, really love you. LOL This bird is the boat's mascot and his name is Broken Beak. He hangs about until the boat really gets moving and then he flies off. He was a just a couple of feet from where I was seated and I almost sh*t when I saw him circling and getting ready to land. 

The 80s are alive and well in Moorea

I woke very late this morning due to closing the curtains in the room last night—black out curtains. The room was as dark as a tomb at 10AM. Oh well, what is vacation for?

I got dressed and went to the front desk and reserved another whale watch on a catamaran tomorrow morning at 8am. (note to self: set alarm and leave curtains partially open). I then hired a taxi—10 xpf round trip to the shopping area called Tiki Village. There were at least 6 pearl shops and several gift stores, a few restaurants and a small grocery store. It’s about 10 minutes from the hotel by car.

One thing to note: It’s HOT here. Despite the breeze and the fact that it is ‘winter’, the sun is brutal. I wouldn’t have even tried this walk knowing I would be coming back laden with water and some food for my room.

I had lunch in a one of the restaurants. I purchased a 4 cheese pizza and 2 Hinano beers. (the beer is cheaper than the water) The pizza was enormous and very, very good. Not the usual cheeses—this one had mozzarella, blue cheese, ricotta and some other kind I couldn’t identify). It was huge. I ate three of those slices and got a to-go box. This should be very good to eat cold. The bill was 2000. Much better than the hotel.

I went to the grocery store and spent about 4200 on groceries and wine. I got yogurt, salami, cheese, crackers, mixed nuts, pretzels, a few cans of tonic and soda, v8 and a very large bottle of water. I will pick up a baguette tomorrow morning at the little store across the road from the hotel. Breakfast and lunch for several days! The bottle of wine I got is a pink moscato. It was about 1300 xpf.. not sure what that will taste like but it is chilling in the mini fridge and I will find out later today! (And yes, I did pack a corkscrew!)

All the music I’ve heard in stores in restaurants is very 80s. I thought of my ex-husband when I heard that song called Hey Now, Hey Now, by Tears for Fears I think. (Inside joke for members of my family). I heard his voice singing that refrain with a PA Dutch accent. I also heard Boy George and Culture Club very frequently.

It’s about 2Pm here and I’m off to the pool and beach.  

Early evening now. Spent the afternoon lounging by one of the infinity pools. Happy Hour starts at 430 and really is just an hour. All ‘fancy’ mixed drinks are just 1000! They are regularly anywhere from 1800-2100!!! Even the beer is ridiculous and that isn’t on special. But I had two drinks and they bring a glass full of green and black olives drenched in olive oil, three large chunks of fresh coconut and some toothpicks. This is surrounded by 3 or 4 tiny croissant looking hard crackers of some sort. But hey, they were free and they were olives so I ate them!

I came back to the room around six and took a shower in the giant tub. I rate the shower about 7 out of 10. Not enough water pressure for me—but still does the job! Thankfully, I am only a teeny bit burned on my back, near the top. The sun is so strong here. Without the breeze that is moving the air all the time, I don’t think I could stand to be out in it for very long.

I haven’t yet made it to the ocean for a swim. I did however take a walk near the water close to sunset.

Oh and I did finally hear some sort of current music at the bar today: Happy by that Pharrel guy. I think that was last summer in the US! But most of the afternoon was 80s stuff with a little Polynesian music mixed in. I thought the music would be in French but I've not heard that. 

I'm just giddy with the internet speed here. I'd forgotten that it really doesn't take 20 minutes to upload 3 pictures!! I'll try and go back and add some videos at some point. 

I am excited to be going out on a catamaran tomorrow morning. I’ve never been on one! Cross your fingers that we see some humpback whales!

I will leave you with this:

 

ATV Quads and a Sweaty Frenchman!

Day 13 – Moorea

Awoke very early this morning. I needed to be on the 1^st tender. I had room service and was up on deck in time to see the ship move slowly into Opunowu Bay. As we dropped anchor, I made my way to the Casino Lounge for a tender ticket. Luckily, we were put aboard the 1^st tender with the crew that sets up the Princess station on land.

The tour operator, ATV Moorea, was waiting for us and off we went in air conditioned luxury to their office to pick up the ATV Quad Runners. I was a nervous wreck thinking I would not be able to operate this thing. I immediately asked our most yummy French speaking guide about the difficulty driving these machines and he said “You want to ride behind me” OH MY! But I decided to try it for myself and before we headed up to Magic Mountain, where you need to ride only on the cement planks the entire way up the mountain.

We had a group of 7—all from our roll call! I don’t remember the 2 of the couple’s name but knew their faces. The other duo was my new friends from The Village’s in Florida---Tony and Phyllis. (I’ve had 4 tours with them on this trip.)

I LOVED it!!! Turning was a bit difficult. It felt like an old car without power steering. Not super bad once you did it a few times. We rode on the main road that goes around the island for a bit getting used to the Quads. Then it was off road. Dear Lord, the bumps and hairpin turns. It was a bit hard on the arms and especially my right thumb as that was how you gave the thing gas.
Tony And Phyllis

Gui, our guide, drove us through Pineapple Fields. I never knew they grew on plants at ground level. For some reason, I thought of them growing high on trees like coconuts. After the new plants are put into the ground, it takes one year for them to grow. And I must tell you that I think I am ruined for any other pineapple other than ones grown on Moorea. Gui also told us that to grow a new pineapple, you can replant the top of the pineapple. A lot of work though for 1 pineapple—1 year, 1 pineapple.

This avocado was just laying on the ground. I couldn't believe how big they were. 

We also saw ‘wild’ banana and orange trees. The bananas here (there are 40 varieties) are so cute. They are very small and very sweet. Most of the other types of bananas you need to cook to enjoy.

Then we headed further into the caldera of the collapsed volcano to look at gorgeous tropical flowers that we would pay a fortune for back home. Bird of Paradise----4 different colors, from a dark purple-red, to red to orange and pink. Gardenias and so many others I have no names for. There were also wild avocado trees producing the biggest fruits I’ve ever seen. It was just amazing driving around this tropical paradise. I have never seen such lush greenery in my life.

There is also such a variety of trees—all except the palm trees were brought from other countries. For example, there is a scraggly type of pine tree that grows here. It was brought by the British because the trunk grows straight. They used them to make ship’s masts.

I finally got an answer about what the names of these trees I’ve seen on all the islands are. They remind me of Africa. Well, that’s because they are from Africa—they are Acacia Trees. They really stuck out to me because I’ve always seen pictures of them in the African veldt.

At one point, we rode to the center of the Caldera and we were surrounded by mountain peaks. It was just beautiful. We were also told that on the spot where we stopped, the movie, The Mutiny, was filmed. The scene where Mel Gibson meets the native Chief. I’ve not seen the movie but now plan to.

We also stopped at a juice, jam factory where they use the fruits and flowers to make all sorts of products. I tried the pineapple vanilla gelato and bought my parents a jar of homemade jam. After a short stop, we made our way out of the Caldera and back onto the main road. Thank Goodness for smooth turn free roads!

Our guide turned off and we all followed him. He stopped and asked if I wanted to ride with him for this last part up to the top of Magic Mountain. I said I did as I’d not been able to take a lot of pictures during the tour. So I slid back to the passenger seat and he hopped on in front of me. I must say, the smell of a slightly sweaty, good looking male made me want to just hold onto him very tight. But, I restrained myself and kept my arms and legs to myself—for the most part.

I am very thankful he was driving because the drive to the top of Magic Mountain was brutal even for the other men driving in our group. He stopped at various places along the way and would tell me what we were seeing. He was actually very, very knowledgeable. We finally reached what we thought was the top, only to find there was climbing on foot required to get to the top. It was very steep and there was a rope you could use to pull yourself along. I will say, the view at the top was so worth it.  We had a panoramic view of both Opunowu and Cook’s bay as well as the ocean. You could see the reefs and the waves breaking over the reef. STUNNING

Now for the ride down……I climbed back aboard the Quad for the ride down. OMGoodness. It was so steep that it took all my arm and inner thigh muscles to keep me from wrapping myself around Gui. I wanted to take a picture of him directly in front of me but literally could not free a hand to lift the camera. In any event, it was quite a long ride down—bumpy as hell and I will confess my thighs failed me once or twice and I went crashing into him. Not painful at all on my part and I did apologize profusely but Gui just looked back, smiled and said no problem.  (minor swoon)

Here is one of our guide, swinging like Tarzan on branch of a tree--I believe in the rubber tree family. 

It was very hot and those helmets we wore were heavy and most unattractive. We wore hair nets underneath the helmet and everyone’s hair was soaking wet with sweat.

Once we got back to the office, we wrote our email addresses, using a French keyboard. It is very different than an American Keyboard. I wouldn’t have thought that. Gui took pictures of us at various points during the tour. I’m sure they are just LOVELY. LOL

I started to feel very wobbly, despite the fact that I had eaten breakfast, drank ½ gallon of water and had some pineapple gelato and more water. When we got back to the dock to board the tender, I thanked the heavens those wonderful men were waiting there with cold towels and cold water. I really didn’t feel better until I was back in my cabin for about an hour and having gulped two bottles of water. Both of my hands are sore today. As a matter of fact, my right palm is still a bit swollen.

I decided to pack and got almost everything ready. I just had my toiletries, laptop, kindle etc for tomorrow. Off to the last dinner I went.

Lee and Tony and I decided to meet in the Club bar at 7:15 for a final ‘chat’ before we parted ways. I really didn’t realize just how many people I’d met until they started coming up to me to say goodbye. I bought a bottle of wine to share with Phil for our last night. (I needed to use my on board credit or lose it) Of course, I downloaded the picture of them later on and of course it's blurry. Sigh.

I really feel like I knew my waiters and the head waiter. We all hugged and kissed.. and I know they do this every 10 days but I felt like they were all so special and took an interest in us and how we were enjoying ourselves and the food.

They did the parade of the Baked Alaska tonight and that was nice. The only bit of ceremony they made the wait staff participate in. (Good idea in my book) We applauded them and then the chefs and kitchen staff came out. It was very fitting for the final night.